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Ramp Surfacing Ramp Construction: Surfacing What kind of plywood should I use? Use the most inexpensive 3/4 inch plywood you can find for the transition sides. When surfacing it, I would suggest using 2 layers of plywood that add up to 1/2 inch in thickness (or more). For example, you could use inexpensive 1/2 inch ply for the first layer and then cover that with a better quality 1/4 inch layer. This will give you a strong, smooth surface. You could also use 2 sheets of 3/8 inch plywood. Using thinner plywood makes building the ramp easier because the sheets are light and they're easy to bend to the shape of the ramp. (I recommend using two 3/8 sheets) Should I layer it diagonally? If you have the money to waste, go for it. The point of layering it is this: the ramp will skate faster when you are riding with the grain and slower when you are riding across the grain. Diagonal layering may provide the best compromise, but it tends to be a big pain in the ass and a waste of plywood. I suggest putting the surface on so that the grain runs lengthwise on the ramp. You cover more ground going back and forth than you do along the coping, so this should make it nice and fast. Is masonite a good surfacing material? Some people think so. I don't like it. It is fast and smooth, but those are the only benefits. It is also very slippery and very dusty, which I don't like. Rain destroys masonite quickly, so it is usually no good for outdoor ramps. It works OK indoors, but creates a lot of dust when you skate it. If you ever skate an indoor masonite ramp, you`ll notice that it gets really dusty and hard to breathe after a while. Getting that crap in your lungs is really bad for you. Some people swear by masonite, but I avoid it. Masonite is also very expensive so if you're on a budget look at other surfacing options. NOTICE: When putting a new layer of plywood on the surface (over an existing layer), offset the seams. If the seams on the new layer line up with the seams on the old layer, it`ll break up faster. By offsetting the seams, you are avoiding this problem. You can offset the seams but putting one layer horizontally and one layer vertically. Pros and Cons of each method: Lengthwise Method: Pro: It is stronger Pro: The ramp is a little faster Con: You may have to soak the wood If you are going to put on your plywood lengthwise you may need to soak it in water so it doesn't crack when you bend it to fit the curve of the ramp. Just try to bend it first, if it doesn't make any really funky noises when you are bending it you won't need to soak it. It will creak and crack a little, but unless it really gets bad you should be fine. If you made the transition really steep you will need to soak it. You can just get a tarp to put under the plywood, prop up the sides, and fill it with water. Or if you have a pool, just throw your 10-12 sheets of plywood in there. Your parents will like that....trust me, better ask them first. Widthwise Method: Pro: It is easier to do Con: It is weaker Con: The ramp skates a little slower If you decide to put on the plywood widthwise, then you don't need to soak it...it should bend easily. That is the way I put my first layer on. I would have probably soaked it and put it on lengthwise, but it was about -5 degrees out when I built my ramp so it would have froze rather quickly. One thing you can do is put the first layer on widthwise because it is easier to bend, then for the second layer you can put the plywood on lengthwise for added strength. Outdoor ramps: You need to protect you ramp from the elements. The best way to do this is to avoid having a ramp outdoors altogether, especially if you live somewhere where it rains or snows often like Canada! If you have to build your ramp outdoors I do suggest taking a bit of extra care when building it. Does water damage wood? Actually water alone cannot damage wood, but water in combination with other natural weathering elements, such as sunlight, does cause problems. Wood, being a porous, will absorb moisture from rain or snow causing it to swell. Then direct exposure to sunlight will cause this wood to release the moisture and shrink. This constant expansion and contraction due to natural weather patterns causes wood cracking, splintering , warping and twisting. Pressure treated wood needs immediate and long lasting protection. Almost all new pressure treated lumber used for construction is swelled in dimension because water is used in the pressure treatment stage. Once exposed to warm air and direct sunlight, new pressure treated lumber will begin to dry out very rapidly releasing the water put in during treatment. this initial rapid drying and shrinking cycle will begin immediately degrading the lumber. Since cracking, splintering and warping can be most severe, immediate protection is vitally important. You need to treat your plywood, to protect it from the rain. Whenever plywood gets wet it expands and the glues holding it together are weakened. This can warp the ramp it will also slowly start the to decay. You can help keep the rain off your plywood by coating it with Varethane which is basically the same thing used to treat decks, no not skateboard decks, patios and such. Do not paint your ramp! Painting slows down the ramp and starts to peel off! Things like Thompson's Water Seal and other brands will keep the water off the ramp which are available at any local hardware store. You should coat each layer with the seal. If you only coat one then it's pointless because the water will bead off one and just sep into the other. Coat each layer a couple times but make sure you coat the bottom layer well because after you put the second layer on top of it you won't be able to coat it again. You can also get pressure treated plywood but it's very costly, I recommend Varethaning your ramp once or so a year after it's built. If you find the water isn't beading off when it rains then make sure you put another coat on as soon as you can. Make sure to protect your entire ramp by coating everything at least once! What's the use of having protected plywood when all your supports to hold up the ramp have warped and started to splinter? Last update:  02-20-2008 Submitted by Ramprage

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